Kampong Speu attractions

Kampong Speu attractions
Places we went to on a weekend trip (from Phnom Penh, two days and one night in Kampong Speu = Krong Chbar Mon), not comprehensive.

1. Phnom Chas National Park
2. "The Great Wall of Cambodia"
3. Te Teuk Pus Hot Spring
4. Phnom Preah Pagoda
5. Institut Bouddhique Preah Sihanouk Dhammadhiraj
6. Details about traveling

1. Phnom Chas National Park
On google maps: PHNOM CHAS NATIONAL PARK រមណីយដ្ឋាន ភ្នំចាស់ 11.6159, 104.2487.

Free entry, parking on the grounds of the temple of same name. Start of stairway, concrete statues of turtles and a frog.

Stairway through caves and religious sites (like elsewhere, no pictures). On top of mountain rocks and a viewpoint.

2. "The Great Wall of Cambodia"
There are several quarries around, which you can only see from above because they operate as an open pit. One of them is next to road and NP, and they built a wall of stone blocks along the road, which I call “The Great Wall of Cambodia”.

3. Te Teuk Pus Hot Spring
On google maps: Te Teuk Pus Hot Spring (ទេទឹកពុះ) ទេទឹកពុះ 11.7239, 104.0552.

The only hot spring I know of in Cambodia (and internet and friends say this is the only one). Actually it’s a cluster of hot springs, one open to public and another hot spring is being developed into a resort. 9.5 km from Oral town roundabout, but this part of hwy44 is a dirt track and took us half an hour by car.

All that matter you see on the bottom (except at the lowest part where the hot water is coming out) is not mineral deposit as I thought, but organic matter (spongy, probably algae). The wind ripples the water surface, else you would have a clear view to the bottom.

A water analysis was published in: Bulletin of Cambodian Chemical Society 10 (2019): 30-37. Online here: https://www.researchgate.net/publication/340163677_Assessing_Water_Quality_of_Te_Teuk_Pus_Hot_Spring_in_Kampong_Speu_Province_of_Cambodia

My observations: There is a weak smell when you get 5 m near the water. The water has a slightly soapy feeling on my fingers. Where it comes out of the ground, the water is too hot to touch (but not hot enough to shrink PET bottles), but on the sides you can shortly dip your hand in. I took a sample of 0.5 L and drank it (no particular taste) after cooling to room temperature.

The stream has comfortable temperature for bathing. I lay down in the stream, but that was not a good idea as only half of my body was in water, and the ground is muddy. Better just to dip your feet in.

4. Phnom Preah Pagoda
On google maps: Phnom Preah Pagoda វត្តវរៈបព្វតារាម (ហៅ ភ្នំព្រះ) 11.6705, 104.3258.

From Kampong Speu Market 40 km by car. Best access according to locals not via hwy44, but hwy1440 and then dirt track, passing shrine at 11.6604, 104.3600. Including about 10 minutes stop at shrine took us 1 hour 20 minutes.

Temple and mountain behind (made up of boulders with some vegetation, I have not seen such a huge pile of boulders elsewhere).

There is an un-marked trail (without my friends asking locals for directions, I would not have found it) that leads through forest to a way up the boulders. We are like ants going over gravel! The boulders are weathered granite, rough surface easy to grab.

We get up a few hundred meters but then come to a point where there is no obvious/easy way to continue. But I would love to go up all the way with a guide!

Pagoda erected on naturally stacked boulders.

Other interesting places on the temple grounds. A bridge over a stream. (And religious buildings in similar style, no pictures.)

Grassland with interesting boulders. One looks like an elephant and the other is as big as a house. They all have smooth surface, must be much younger than those we climbed.

Standing Buddha (the tallest I know of in Cambodia) and platform erected over two boulders.

Gold painted religious buildings and another view of the mountain made up of boulders.

5. Institut Bouddhique Preah Sihanouk Dhammadhiraj
Google maps: ពុទ្ធសាសនមណ្ឌលព្រះសីហនុធម្មាធិរាជ 11.4775, 104.5637.
 
I drove past this pink gate several times on public transport, now is the occasion to stop and have a look. The lawn is kept well, but the buildings are not in regular use. I spot some people further inside.

Diagonally across is Noreak Borei Museum សារមន្ទីរ​នរបុរី (about history, art, religion), worth a visit another day.

6. Details about traveling
After an okay trip https://christianpfc.blogspot.com/2021/10/kampong-chhnang-attractions.html with B two weeks ago, I suggested we go to Kampong Speu and told him my points of interest. I told B he can bring up to 5 friends and I will pay for car, accommodation and food. B suggested we rent a van (with automatic and manual gear shift?) which would be easier to drive on the dirt roads (or did he already have in mind to bring more people?).

Sat25sep2021 Phnom Penh to Kampong Speu
I get up in the morning and find B’s friends rented the room next to mine for an early start. When I go out to hallway there are 2 men and 5 women waiting for me. That’s not what I had in mind! In the end we would be 12 in the van, only three of them I know. I pay 200 USD for car (80 USD rental for one day and 40 USD deposit).

Without my knowledge, B had arranged a police escort for us from Kampong Speu. The police escort is free of charge, but after hiking in the National Park, B has arranged a lunch for us (12 in our group and 8 police/rangers) that cost me 95 USD! Later I have some words with him to stop organizing things without consulting me.

At night stay in a hotel in Kampong Speu for 14 USD/night. They allow only 5 guests in a room with double bed. I pay for two rooms and they pay for the third room. 

Kampong Speu is only 50 km from Phnom Penh, you could argue if it’s worth staying over night or going back and everyone sleeps at their own place.

Sun26sep2021 Kampong Speu to Phnom Penh
The girls have gone home, now it’s just us 7 men. Police/Rangers escort us to Phnom Preah Pagoda. Free lunch at temple (either the temple hands out free food or the boys paid for it?). Evening return to Phnom Penh.

The first trip I did with B and his friend got out of hands time-wise (two days instead of day trip) and subsequently money-wise (car rental for three days instead of one). This trip got out of hand by number of people and money-wise. I will give us one more chance.

Financial summary: car rental 160 USD, fuel 93, hotel 28 (two rooms, and third room 14 they paid), breakfast (for 12) 25, lunch (for 20) 92, dinner (for 12) 25, breakfast (for 7) 16, lunch free, dinner (for 7) 28. Sum 467 USD. Technically I would get 40 deposit back, I told B to keep the money for me, but I guess he has long spent it, so I will not mention it again. Total cost 507 USD.

But I use to say "Money can be replaced, time cannot." and recently in a bar I saw a less elegant variation (even incorrect: money does not "return", you have work for it or have other sources of income; and how does time return?):

Travel while you can!

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