Patchwork bridges

Patchwork bridges in SEAsia

Here a list and pictures of patchwork bridges I have come across in Southeast Asia. If you know any more, let me know in comments.
1. Bridge on the River Khwai Kanchanaburi
2. Railway bridge in Langsuan (Chumphon)
3. Tha Chang Black Bridge สะพานดำท่าช้าง (Korat)
4. Old Bridge in Kampot
5. Long Bien Bridge in Hanoi

1. Bridge on the River Khwai Kanchanaburi

2. Railway bridge in Langsuan (Chumphon)
https://www.wongnai.com/attractions/590925tV-สะพานรถไฟประวัติศาสตร์หลังสวน (in Thai) says the bridge was repaired after bomb damage in WWII.

3. Tha Chang Black Bridge สะพานดำท่าช้าง (Korat)
Here is looks the river changed it's course. Aerial picture by a friend's drone. There is a petrified wood monument at the bridge.

4. Old Bridge in Kampot
This one is made up of three different styles. Pedestrian and motorbike crossing.

5. Long Bien Bridge in Hanoi
Railway track in center and pedestrian and mocy crossing on both sides.

Copyright 2023 ChristianPFC

Cycling near Kanchanaburi

Cycling near Kanchanaburi

I have been to Kanchanaburi many times and still many places I haven’t seen. Problem is accessibility by public transport (see previous post). One place I want to go to is 10 km out of town, and two more along the way. Too far to walk, and if renting a car or mocy with driver, I would mostly pay him for waiting for me.

Then I haven an epiphany: rent a bicyle! I don’t know why I didn’t get that idea earlier, but probably because I have two friend who get around Bangkok and Phnom Penh by bicycle, which I consider too dangerous and there are better alternatives. But Kanchanaburi, with tree lined local roads with wide side strips is perfect for cycling.

Bicycle rental in Mae Nam road / Khwae River Road (main tourist road) for 50 THB per day (i.e. 24 h, I took the bicycle over night), 300 deposit and picture of my passport and my hotel details. The first time since 2010 that I actively take part in road traffic in Thailand. In 2010, I rode a bicycle on Phra Phradaeng (peninsula, mostly forest, no through traffic). No gears, but roads mostly flat and the one hill I got off and pushed. Basket in front useful to put my stuff in. I don’t have a license to drive a motorbike and prefer bicycle anyway.

In Kwaen Rock at Wat Khao Chong Sadet อินแขวน วัดเขาช่องเสด็จ
The road to the temple leads past fields with onions and spring onions, I can smell them when driving past. Park bicycle at Wat Khao Chong Sadet. Some people there speak English and offer me cold drinking water and show me the way (past the temple, over the field, into the forest).

View of rock (zoom) from the field behind the temple. Elevation about 100 m from temple and field.

A recent fire has cleared all vegetation. Yellow flags or arrows visible to mark the way, but now I can go any way.

Note the pre-historic palm trees (above picture) and moss.

Last part some serious climbing (but no equipment other than closed shoes and gloves needed).

And here is the rock standing on small base:
 

View from higher up:

View of Kanchanaburi town:
 

Wat Phothisat Banpotnimit วัดโพธิสัตว์บรรพตนิมิต
 

The interesting part of the temple is a giant statue of many-handed Guan Yin.

Several areas with unfinished construction.

Wat Tham Khao Pun วัดถ้ำเขาปูน
A golden chedi on top of the mountain. Reached by red painted steel stairway.

Views over Khwae Noi river, railway line, Kanchanaburi town from chedi and nearby cafes and restaurants.

A cave (entry 20 THB) with several rooms and various sculptures, the reclining Buddha the most important. Some narrow passages between rooms.

A museum witch pictures from construction of the Thailand-Burma railway line. Here the bombed, and in repaired state still in use, steel bridge and the long gone wooden bridge (that was built before the steel bridge) over the river Kwai.

Chong Kai Allied War Cemetery สุสานทหารสัมพันธมิตรช่องไก่
Drive past, but not my main area of interest.

Copyright 2022 ChristianPFC

Soda spring in Kanchanaburi

Soda spring in Kanchanaburi

In February 2021, while drilling a well, a soda spring was discovered in Huay Krachao district in Kanchanaburi province. This is the only such place in Thailand and is going to be developed as a tourist attraction.

Thailand discovers naturally carbonated water fountain in Kanchanaburi (February 11, 2021)
https://www.thaipbsworld.com/thailand-discovers-naturally-carbonated-water-fountain-in-kanchanaburi/
งดดื่ม‘น้ำพุโซดา’ รอผลแล็บชี้ชัด (13 ก.พ. 2564)
https://www.khaosod.co.th/newspaper/newspaper-front-page/news_5942574
“Soda Springs” to Become Tourist Attractions (17 February 2021)
https://tna.mcot.net/english-news/line-today-english-news-638657
กรมน้ำบาดาลเผยโฉม'น้ำพุโซดา' จ่อแจกให้ชิมสัปดาห์หน้า (20 กุมภาพันธ์ 2564)
https://d.dailynews.co.th/regional/826600/

In 2020, my parents and I passed through Czech Republic. There is an area (near Franzensbad / Frantiskovy Lazne) with cold volcanic activity (mofettas / fumaroles not touristically developed, and Soos National Nature Reserve developed for tourism). In Soos National Nature Reserve, there is a spring ("Source Vera" on googlemaps, either misplaced or misnamed, the spring I’m referring to is at 50.1484, 12.4032) that had the most delicious water I ever drank. Now it seems I can get the same experience in Thailand!

Spring is visible from hundreds of meters away, when there is a gap in vegetation along the road.

The water springs up to about 5 m and is blown to the side by wind. Impractical to catch, and one would get wet. Some splashes on my glass and camera left spots of limescale. In the end, I had to use vinegar to remove the spots.

Small visitor center with information board. Nearby (no pictures) some food stalls but currently not open due to lack of tourists.

Chemical analysis for well #1:
(chemical symbol or formula, charges omitted, amount in mg/l): Ca 450, Mg 120, Na 130, K 100, Fe 10, Mn 0.6, Cu n.d., Zn 0.1, SO4 4, Cl 20, CO3 n.d., HCO3 2420, F 1.4., NO2 n.d., NO3 1, total dissolved solid 2020, pH 6.5, conductivity 3100 microS/cm).

The three analyses for three well vary slightly for major components, and considerably for Fe and Zn (well #2: Fe 28, Zn 27).

Processing plant next to visitor center:

Processed bottled water (bottle 600 ml for 10 THB, or 12 bottles for 100 THB) is sold, and there are taps where you can draw water for free.

At the end of the pond I noticed another small spring. I took a water sample, and when comparing them at home, I found this (unprocessed, brown sediment settles in bottle) water tastes much better than the processed or bottled, and is comparable to the water in Czech Republic. 

Getting there and back
The place is in Huay Krachao district, halfway between Huay Krachao and Bo Phloi towns (district capitals), from Kanchanaburi easiest to reach via Bo Phloi. Bus #325 Kanchanaburi – Dan Chang (Suphanburi) passes through Bo Phloi. On internet, I found a frequency of every 25 minutes, but when I arrived at Kanchanburi bus station, the timetable showed only the following: 10, 12, 13:30, 15, 16, 17, 18. I was lucky to be just in time for the 10 bus.

As soon as I approached bus station, locals asked me where I’m going. In such cases, even though I know where to go, I play along and and got correct information. Whereas in touristy areas, this would be a scam.

Fare is 35 THB and it took 9:59-11:18 to reach Bo Phloi. To my surprise, there is no bus station in Bo Phloi, there are only two shelters in front of Bo Phloi Hospital and Wat Khao Wong Jindaram (sitting black Buddha, across the road from hospital), with no information. From there it’s 12 km to the soda spring. I didn’t see any car or mocy for hire, so I asked a group of locals who were eating nearby and they called me a mocy taxi by mobile phone. The driver arrived and asked for 200 THB for return trip, which is reasonable and I agreed (there was no choice anyway). Spend half an hour at the spring and return to bus shelter.

Mocy driver says next (or last?) bus is 17, and he would drive me to Kanchanaburi for 400, an offer I decline (ride too long, too uncomfortable). Ask nearby people: there is no timetable, there will be buses to Kanchanburi, the last being 17:40? Judging by the timetable Kanchanaburi-Dan Chang, there might be a largest gap of 2 hours between buses.

Time to polish my thumb. Figuratively, as hitchhiking in Thailand is done by pointing your outstretched arm with palm down, just like calling a taxi. In 10 years, I have hitchhiked about 50 times and seen only one other person hitchhike.

One of the worst spots I have ever been. From pavilion, view of coming traffic is blocked (wouldn’t be a problem for bus, as bus would slow down to look out for waiting people and honk). The sun is opposite, i.e. I have to step out into the sun to see the traffic and hail a car. The pavilion is in the northern part of town, i.e. many cars might just be going to Bo Phloi and not to Kanchanaburi.

But I get lucky and a car stops and he is going to Kanchanaburi and even knows my hotel and will send me there. Ride 14:58-15:45 in back of pick-up truck. An inglorious way to travel, hold my phone tightly lest it flies away and keep my mouth shut lest my dentures are blown out by wind and push my glasses close to my face lest they are blown away. But still: better than waiting undetermined time for bus, and faster as well.

Only by experience and speaking Thai and luck did I get there and back within reasonable time and reasonable expenses.

This approach is general and I do it often. Go somewhere by public transport or taxi or mocy with driver, return by hitchhiking. At bus station or stop you can get information about public transport or hired car/mocy, on the way back there is high probability that a car going in direction of town is actually going to town.

There is no public transport on the road (hwy 3363) passing the spring, but bus 325 passes on hwy 3086 in 5.5 km distance. Too far to walk, but suitable for hitchhiking.

On the way, I stopped at Luang Pho Nil Bo Phloi (black sitting Buddha on hill, 200 steps Naga stairway) and Carhenge Thailand.

Copyright 2022 ChristianPFC

Khao Chang Phuak in Thong Pha Phum National Park

Khao Chang Phuak in Kanchanaburi

เขาช้างเผือก จังหวัดกาญจนบุรี

This mountain is open to public for two months each year (24nov2019 to 31jan2020). Only guided tours including one night in a tent. Maximum 60 people per day. 

14jan2020 Bangkok

Out of the three phone numbers I found on the internet, only 098-2520359 works. Ask for details (in Thai): doing the trip in one day is not possible, tents are available for rent. No free places this week, but 22-31jan.

15jan2020 Bangkok

Call again: no free places on 22jan.

16jan2020 Bangkok

Free place on 23jan. Book this place by phone and send my personal details and picture of passport (or ID card for Thai nationals) to thongphaphumoffice@gmail.com and receive confirmation email.

Thus, it took me three phone calls over three days to understand what is meant by “booking 7 days in advance”: if you call 8 days in advance, they will not accept a booking. If you call 7 days in advance, you might get a place (booking starts 8:30). If you call 6 days or less in advance, it will be booked out.

Tue21jan2020 Bangkok to Thong Pha Phum

While it is possible to go from Bangkok to E-Tong in one day, I prefer to stay a night in Thong Pha Phum ทองผาภูมิ. Bus from New Southern Bus Station to Kanchanaburi (aircon, 110 THB, 12:31-14:56, 113 km), then bus from Kanchanaburi to Thong Pha Phum (fan, 80 THB, 15:03-17:44, 144 km). There is a direct bus (Bangkok to Sankhlaburi, stops in Thong Pha Phum), but low frequency.

Wed22jan2020 Thong Pha Phum to E-Tong

Yellow songtheo 8280 (10:31-13:02, 69 km). The road has many curves, 399 according to signs in E-Tong อีต่อง (sometimes called Pilok ปิล็อก after the abandoned tin mine), and parts are in poor condition (and poor or no mobile reception). Songtheo stops at Thong Pha Phum National Park office (8 km before reaching E-Tong) 12:15-40 so everyone can register.

In my case: entry to NP 200 THB, 490 THB for guide + carrier + tent + sleeping bag rental, 30 THB camp site fee.

Songtheo schedule: Thong Pha Phum to E-Tong 10:30, 11:30, 12:30; E-Tong to Thong Pha Phum 6, 7, 8. 
Times from: https://th.readme.me/p/24263 
(and more details for public transport in Thai)
That means when you come down from the mountain and arrive in E-Tong around 10, there will be no more public transport for that day. update: found a picture I took in E-Tong:
dep E-Tong 6:30, 7:00, 7:30, 8:00
dep Thong Pha Phum 10:30, 11:00, 12:30, 13:30

One would have to leave Bangkok with the bus at 5 to get Thong Pha Phum and then to E-Tong in one day by public transport and climb the mountain the following day.

Visitors from Bangkok often leave around midnight by private car or organized tour by van to arrive in the morning in E-Tong.

Spend the rest of the day sightseeing in E-Tong. Buy food for the trip (lunch, dinner, breakfast, 6 liter of water per person recommended).

Despite being far away from major settlements, the sky is not clear and the mountain is visible in 6 km distance in a haze. What is the source of air pollution? Apart from E-Tong with a few hundred inhabitants and tourists, there is no human settlement anywhere near. The closest settlements with more than 1000 people would be in 25 km on either Thai or Myanmar side. On satellite image, all mountain and forest around:

Thu23jan2020 I-Tong to Khao Chang Phuak

Alarm 7:30. Breakfast and packing. My backpack 8.5 kg including 3.6 liter of water. My carrier 6 kg (tent, sleeping bag, 2.4 liter of water, at 50 THB / kg = 300 THB for the way up, each carrier can carry up to 30 kg). People are put in groups, my group departure 9:44.

I read that before (departure between 9 and 10) and wondered why not earlier. Judging by distance and looking at satellite pictures on google maps, it should be easily possible to do the trip in one day.

ChristianPFC at the starting point in town (during the trip, I would wear gloves and fully cover my face to protect my skin from sun). The signs are in English (The Mist Mining) and Thai (เขาช้างเผือก 8 กม. Khao Chang Phuak 8 km) in fonts that look like Burmese.

Stop at checkpoint (show ticket, take pictures) 10:08-19.

Signs with botanical and geographical information along the way:

A hiker resting with cramp (ตะคริว dtà-kriw) and getting leg massage and shade from ranger, later I pass another with cramp.

Rest 12:34-13:00. Not tired, but this is the last shady place. Consumed already 1.2 liters of water. Most of the trek is in grassland with no shade (my previous treks were mostly in shady forest). But that has a positive: you can see the entire track on google maps satellite view.

View of campsite and peak before descending to campsite:

Arrive at campsite 13:15 (3h29min including 7+19+7+26=59min rest and 11 min stop at gate for pictures; 6.9 km on googlemaps). Along the route poor or no mobile reception. But in camp good reception. My carrier puts up my rented tend:

Now the mystery why it takes two days is solved:

The last 740 m from campsite to peak is one-way-traffic. Up from 15, down from 17:30. If I were alone, I could easily do the entire trip in one day.

Hot in tent, but outside okay. No full shade and nowhere to sit and no table. Some smoking. Young crowd (average 30?) and good English several I talked to. They came by organized van tour from Bangkok; public transport from Ayutthaya; own car from Bangkok. 

My tent neighbors came by own car and have an empty seat and can take me back to Thong Pha Phum tomorrow.

Ascent 15:33-16:20 (740 m from campsite) with several traffic jams because others so slow. 

The following three pictures illustrate why this part is called สันคมมีด săn-kom mêet (blade of a knife):

Finally on top (1249 m above sea level and 320 m above E-Tong; the mountain in the back is at a lower level):

Down 17:07-50, again traffic jams.

At camping site first aid kit and thermometer on tree: 23 Celsius about 18:00. Sun disappears about 18:05 and it gets fresh.
Boiling water provided by rangers.

The Thais are used to sit on the floor, but I’m not and it quickly gets uncomfortable. There is no furniture! I want a chair and a table! Eat standing, and read on mobile while lying in sleeping bag uncomfortable. I remember the same problem from camping in the army 20 years ago.

This is the one of the furthest points I have been from civilization and I was looking forward for a clear dark sky with many stars. But it was a disappointment: sky not clear, haze during daytime limits visibility of stars at night. Even when walking a hundred meters from campsite to reduce man-made light, cannot compete with sky at night in Lao (stop on night bus from Vientiane to Vang Vieng) or Umphang in Tak province.

Nothing else to do, sleep 20:45.

Fri24jan2020 E-Tong to Thong Pha Phum

Poor or no sleep. Alarm 6, get up 6:27. Return tent and sleeping bag together 3 kg at 50 THB = 150 THB for my carrier to take down. (I wonder why they don't leave the tents for rent there.)

Descend 7:25-9:42 (2h18min, no stops). My 6 liters of water used up. Free shower in the place I stayed yesterday, change clothes and dry my sweaty clothes in sun (takes just one hour). Sudden power outage, luckily I had enough charge on my phone for the rest of the day. 

Wait for my tent neighbors (slow), then together to Chokkradin Waterfall (included in ticket), their idea. Awesome! I wanted to go anyway, but would not have been able to get there on my own, too far out. Pick up certificate at NP office and I get out in Thong Pha Phum town while they continue to Bangkok.

Total cost: 200 NP entry, 490 various (rent for tent and sleeping bag, guide), 30 fee for camping, 300 for carrier (6 kg up), 150 for carrier (3 kg down) = 1170 THB.

Hotels in Tong Pha Phum town and E-Tong town rather expensive, I paid 600 THB per night for a standard that would cost half in places that are not touristy (I saw only Thai tourists in this trip).

Summary:

A major breakthrough: Everything went smoothly. My first stay in a tent in 20 years (last was in 2000 when I was in the army). Paves the way for other multi-day trips (Phu Kradeung, Mokochu).

However this was not my most challenging hiking in Thailand, that price goes to Doi Nok at the border of Phayao and Lamphang province, taking 10 hours, distance 10 km horizontal and 1000 m vertical.

Further reading:
http://www.wheredowego.in.th/travel/khao-chang-puak/
(bilingual Thai and English)
https://wildlifethailand.com/kunena/23-national-parks-of-thailand/1876-chang-phuak-mountain-trek-thong-pha-phum-national-park
https://www.lonelyplanet.com/thailand/attractions/thong-pha-phum-national-park/a/poi-sig/1244016/357592 
https://kanchanaburi.mots.go.th/news_view.php?nid=428 (in Thai)

Copyright 2020 ChristianPFC