Art Deco market buildings in South-East Asia
Art Deco is one of my favorite architectural styles, and South-East Asia has several beautiful Art Deco market buildings. Here a collection of places I have been or know from reading, alphabetic by city name.
Central Market Battambang (Cambodia)
Central Market Hpa-An (Myanmar)
I don't know if this market has a name. I came across it while walking through town.
Central Market Kuala Lumpur (Malaysia)
I was unaware of the market when I was in Kuala Lumpur in 2011. Later I saw a picture in a travel magazine, and thought: "I bet my left testicle that this building was not built in 1888, but rather some time between 1920 and 1960." And indeed, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Central_Market,_Kuala_Lumpur says: It was founded in 1888 and originally used as a wet market,[1] while the current Art Deco style building was completed in 1937.
https://areyouhaere.files.wordpress.com/2018/01/dsc07812-e1516534301642.jpg
Central Market Phnom Penh (Cambodia)
The Central Market in Phnom Penh was the reason for my first visit to Cambodia, with Siem Reap and Angkor Wat a side trip.
https://cambodiatourism.co/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/centralmarket1.jpg
Bến Thành Market Saigon (Vietnam)
Scott Market = Bogyoke Market Yangon (Myanmar)
Addendum
National Stadium Bangkok (Thailand)
Not a market hall, but beautiful Art Deco.
http://www.diamondcityhotel.com/images/nearbyhightlight/National%20Stadium%20Bangkok.jpg
Bang Pu Recreation Center Samut Prakan (Thailand)
I have been in 2017.
Centennial Hall Breslau/Wrocław (Poland)
Not in South-East Asia, and not a market, but as it fits in here architecturally and one of my readers is from Breslau (German name) / Wrocław (Polish name), so let me add this place as well.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Centennial_Hall
Various cinemas all over South-East Asia
Most cinemas in South-East Asia are in Art Deco style.
The Southeast Asia Movie Theater Project
http://seatheater.blogspot.com/
tries to cover all stand-alone cinemas in South-East Asia,
and I have some articles about cinemas in Thailand https://christianpfc.blogspot.com/search/label/cinema.
Copyright 2018 ChristianPFC except pictures with links
Aircraft used as decoration (5) Airplane Market near Nakorn Pathom
Name in Thai: ตลาดเครื่องบิน กม 5 นครปฐม
(Airplane Market at km 5 Nakorn Pathom)
http://www.thaitravelblogs.com/2016/06/new-airplane-flea-market-in-nakhon-pathom/
https://www.facebook.com/ตลาดเครื่องบิน-กม-5-1566760533616687/
Location:
13.848641, 100.020446 = 13°50'55.1"N 100°01'13.6"E
On hwy321 = Malaiman road ถนนมาลัยแมน at km 5
Wednesday and Saturday from 2 pm to 10 pm.
A bit too far from town to walk (5 km), but several bus (line 737, 8139, 402) and van (line 1704, 80, 996, 78, 737, 8139) pass. (Some numbers appear twice because there are bus and van in that line.)
Visit on Wed 2nov2016. Arrive 16:05. Around 17 still stalls being assembled, but already many customers. From 18 pm very busy, 18:30 rain, go home.
The original jet engines have been replaced by dummies:
The big passenger airplane is open. You can step onto the wings, fall out of the door, sit on pilot's seat:
Even a boat:
And dozens of old army trucks at the end of the market:
Now to the market itself. The usual stuff: clothes, shoes, belts, perfume, medicine, kitchen utensils, watches, pet animals, cosmetics, toys, new and used car parts and entertainment electronics, food. Only little old (collectible/antique) stuff.
Some food I haven't seen before or haven't seen for a long time. Live crickets that will be fried for sale and consumption:
Fried frogs:
Live shrimp for "dancing shrimp salad":
Luuk Chup dessert:
Copyright 2016 ChristianPFC
Words of praise: 7-Eleven shops
Correct name is 7-Eleven (which I shall use from now on; from their original opening times: 7:00-23:00, 7 days per week), but now open 24/7.
When I saw this one recently opened (11280 เย็นอากาศ 1 = 11280 Yen Agat Soi 1), I thought it must be the newest:
Until I came across 11374 Ladprao Soi 112 (eastern side, half way to Ramkhamhaeng 53). But http://corp.7-eleven.com/corp/international-licensing says there were 8,469 in Thailand on August 18, 2015.
Family Mart has around 1,116 stores in Thailand: http://bangkok.coconuts.co/2016/10/05/familymart-expand-quantity-will-reach-2000-stores-5-years
Where was the first? I don't know, but 0078 near Chokchai 4 on northern side of Ladprao Road comes close. 00064 คลองเตย Klong Toey even closer. Most branches have leading zeros to make 4 digits, but once they realized that they will surpass 9999, leading zeros to make 5 digits was introduced, I assume.
There are rumors (citation needed) of a crossroads with four 7-Eleven in the four corners. I could see three 7-Eleven within less than 100 m distance from each other in Rayong:
There is no list with all of them (my search on internet and asking here http://www.thaivisa.com/forum/topic/771449-7-eleven-store-locator/), and not all are shown on googlemaps (personal observation).
The smallest 7-Eleven I ever saw is near Victory Monument (Koh Phaya Thai) and has no entrance for customers:
Now to the words of praise part: well lit and air-conditioned and almost everywhere, so they make a great meeting spot. Best with number and name of the branch to avoid confusion, e.g. in Sri Bam Pen there are three 7-Eleven, hundreds of meters apart. You can pay everything there: bus and plane tickets and electricity bill. Open 24/7 is very useful for a late night meal when street food is closed. Proximity to 7-Eleven is a requirement for me: sometimes I forgot to buy butter or toast in the evening, wake up in the morning and it's just a short hop down to 7-Eleven before I can have breakfast.
Read what others have written about 7-Eleven:
https://inspiredtravelsparks.wordpress.com/2014/08/17/the-big-deal-with-thailands-7-11-and-its-stamp-promotions/
http://bk.asia-city.com/city-living/news/bangkok-most-amazing-7-elevens-family-mart-ranked-best-worst
update 10feb2019:
https://www.actoftraveling.com/2016/01/16/love-7-eleven-thailand/
Update: the now defunct (since 2009) blog gayboythailand had a post praising 7-Eleven. A friend B however buys all his alcohol at small Chinese shop, because they sell alcohol throughout the day and night.
Copyright 2016 ChristianPFC
Hunting for food
There is some special food that is not widely available, I have to buy it at the few places where it is available.
From top to bottom, left to right: physalis, kumquat, mao berry juice, pumpkin chips, sala loy gaew.
Physalis (the Thai call them cape gooseberry เคพกูสเบิร์รี due to their origin from South Africa), slightly sour taste.
Kumquat ส้มกัมควอท or ส้มจี๊ด somchíd or ส้มกืมจ๊อ look like mini oranges, but slightly sour taste and can be eaten with peel. Label: Thanaton Orchard สวนส้มธนาธร www.tntorchard.com. I spotted them by chance at a market in Ramkhamhaeng, as an ingredient for salad and asked staff where they bought them. Haven't seen them anywhere else (checked Klong Toey, Nang Loeng, Bobe market).
Physalis and kumquat keep 2 weeks in refrigerator (check if there are any rotten before storing). They come from Chiang Mai province and are available during cold season.
Availability and prices:
Physalis 500 g for 100 Baht in Narathiwat Ratchanakarin Soi 5, Silom Soi 7 (Narathiwat end) (both close to sky bridge of BTS Chong Nonsi), On Nut (between Sukhumvit and Big C On Nut), Nang Loeng market, Chinatown (2nd hand information), Makro Ladprao, Doi Inthanon roadside.
Kumquat 500 g 25 Baht Makro Ladprao (only place I know). Those I bought on 15.02.2016 seemed to be the same batch as those from 25.01.2016, and there were only two bags left on 15.02.
Mao berry juice 200 ml 35 Baht OTOP shop Sakon Nakon. Sometimes spelled mulberry มัลเบอรี่, the plant used to feed silk caterpillars.
Pumpkin chips (don't remember where exactly I bought them, Khlong Padung Krung Gasem floating market?).
Sala loy gaew สละลอยแก้ว glass with total 470 g contents 100 Baht Tourism Fair Lumpini Park January 2016. From Chantaburi province. (I tried to remove the label, but glue is insoluble in water.)
No physalis or kumquat in:
Max Value Gateway Ekkama, Foodland Patpong, Makro Narathiwat, Big C Saphan Khwai.
I would be grateful if readers could point out where I can get any of those above.
For my favorite food from England and Germany see here:
http://christianpfc.blogspot.com/2014/05/my-favorite-food-from-england.html
http://christianpfc.blogspot.com/2014/05/my-favorite-food-from-germany.html
Update: In Chumpon (bus stop at highway) I had fragrant banana cake เด็กกล้วยหอม, which was delicious. Would like to get this in Bangkok as well.
Update 5jan2017: physalis 300 g 69 THB and kumquat 500 g (no price, probably 25 THB) in Makro Narathiwas Ratchanakarin.
I had significant losses (about 30%) of physalis bought on street market (Nov 2016 to Jan 2017) to mildew. Best to take them out of the bag and discard rotten ones, and spread the others and check regularly.
Update 14jan2017: physalis 300 g 89 THB (reduced from 99) and kumquat 500 g 29 THB in Tops at corner Sathorn / Narathiwas Ratchanakarin (near Chong Nonsi BTS).
Copyright 2016 ChristianPFC
Khlong Phadung Krung Kasem Market ตลาดคลองผดุงกรุงเกษม
I learnt of this market here:
Thailand
invites tourists to Discover Thainess through GI products at Khlong
Phadung Krung Kasem Market in September http://www.tatnews.org/thailand-invites-tourists-to-discover-thainess-through-gi-products-at-khlong-phadung-krung-kasem-market-in-september/
September 1-27, 10-19 every day.
Free shuttle boat from Hua Lampong (near pedestrian bridge at northern end of railway station) is a plus, a pretext to spend some time in the area and allows me to travel the canal by boat (there is no regular boat service, but I spotted several piers which I didn't notice when walking on land). Cross Saen Saep canal (our boat slows down and staff watches out for free way - the Saen Saep canal boats are fast).
Inside the market at the northern end near pier:
Southern end entrance (near Government House):
Southern half of market is air-conditioned in a tent:
Pomelo from Nakhonchaisri in Nakhon Pathom province. Here I learn of different types of pomelo.
Tea from Chiang Rai province:
Market was busy, but not crowded. Didn't see any other foreigner.
Sign at Government House Pier: boat 8:30 to 19:30 every 20 minutes. Arrive at Hua Lampong pier 15:50, staff tells me next boat is 16:20 (on time, I am the only passenger). Return 17:58 from Government House Pier, 2 other passengers. Travel time about 10 minutes.
Another customer tells me on the weekend, there will be a water market.
I will go again in a week (when they show products from other regions of Thailand).
Update: http://www.tatnews.org/gi-market-at-khlong-phadung-krung-kasem/
and http://www.m-culture.go.th
Copyright 2015 ChristianPFC
Siam Gypsy Junction market ตลาดนัด ชุมทาง สยามยิปซี
Wed-Sun 6pm-1am
Wednesday-Sunday, 6pm-1am; entrance is on Krungthep - Nonthaburi road between Soi 27 and 29.
13°49'20.2"N 100°31'57.2"E = 13.822283, 100.532569
I spotted this market when returning to Bangkok by train, and search on the internet gave details:
http://bk.asia-city.com/bangkok-venue/siam-gypsy-junction
http://theworldandhistuktuk.co.uk/siam-gypsy-junction-bangkoks-newest-vintage-market/
so I went to explore by foot.
Entrance is 2.9 km by road north-west of MRT Bang Sue; across the road from completed but not in operation yet MRT Bang Son บางซ่อน.
There is no railway junction nearby, and I wonder how they came to call the market Gypsy market. Thailand is blessed with not having Gypsies. Unfortunately we have Gypsies (Zigeuner in German) in Germany; and it's not politically correct to call Gypsies "Gypsies".
This train (at the entrance on Krungthep - Nonthaburi road) is fake (however the person sitting in it is real):
but this train is real (left side; unlike the Railway markets - see next post - this market has real trains passing in 20 m distance for the full length of the market):
The market is nestled between railway line (20 m south of the market, all trains to/from south and west pass) and MRT line (above the market), which makes it one-lane about 30 m wide and 500 m long. At the eastern end (dead end), there are many unoccupied stalls.
And there is construction of an elevated road above Bang Son wet market (on the other side of the railway line from Siam Gypsy market):
This market used to part of JJ Green (Chatuchak Green, one of the places the original Railway market moved to), and stuff you find there is similar to the Railway markets.
Part of the market has a Wild West theme (albeit that's an Australian flag). "Wild West" is how the US romanticize the genocide on the native Americans.
From researching these markets, I can now draw a tentative timeline:
Original Railway market Chatuchak ends 2013, splits into Railway market Srinakarin and Ratchada Night market. Ratchada night market moves to Chatuchak and becomes JJ Green / Siam Gypsy. Siam Gypsy moves to Bang Son (2015). New branch of Railway market at Ratchada (2015).
Suan Lum Night market (closed 2010) moved to Ratchada Night Bazar, now closed but still a banner สวนลุมไนท์บาซาร์รัชดาภิเษก in the south-western corner of Ratchada-Ladprao intersection.
Copyright 2015 ChristianPFC
Ratchada Railway Market ตลาดนัดรถไฟรัชดา
I recently learnt of a new (open Jan 2015) railway market in Ratchada, behind Esplanade. Open Tue-Sun 5pm - 1am. Easily accessible by MRT Thailand Cultural Center (exit 3, walk north), then walk around the southern end of Esplanade. There is little signage on Ratchada road.
Merchandise is similar to other markets (clothes, mobile accessories, cosmetics, restaurants), and you can find antiques/collectibles/retro as well.
I spotted the first around May on cars or mocy helmets:
Esplanade in the background:
The original Railway Market (ตลาดรถไฟ dtà-làat rót fai, Talat Rot Fai which actually means train market, not railway market) was in Chatuchak area on grounds of the State Railway of Thailand (hence the name), but had to move in 2013. http://bangkokforvisitors.com/shopping/markets/railroad-market.php
It moved to behind Seacon Square in Srinakaran (no MRT or BTS access, far away from central Bangkok) http://www.bangkok.com/shopping-market/rot-fai-market.htm
and now a new branch opened in Ratchada (much closer to central Bangkok and easy access by MRT) http://www.bangkok.com/magazine/rot-fai-market-ratchada.htm with both branches retaining the name, even though there is no railway anywhere near the market.
Copyright 2015 ChristianPFc
